Jazz age jewellery gets its swing back

April 8th, 2012 No comments

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shions come and go and then come back again. Could the latest ‘in thing’ be vintage-inspired jewellery?

Advancements in life most often come from building on the past, but fashion sometimes dictates that we just to try and re-create it.

Following the wild success of HBO drama Boardwalk Empire and a remake of The Great Gatsby currently headed for cinemas, old-fashioned class is back in style. The jewellery world has quickly caught on to this trend with a number of vintage inspired designs beginning to emerge.

Small memorabilia worn as jewellery, silver fob chains, medallions and sovereign holders are becoming fashionable again as modern consumers seek to emulate the glamour and flare that rose out of the Roaring Twenties.

A number of jewellers have already caught the wave of this latest trend, with antique jewellery specialist Ann Koh saying she had noticed a clear growth in interest in everything old, even with the young.

“There has been enormous interest,” Koh said. “I sell a lot of vintage and antique rings to girls becoming engaged. There’s a group in the population, both young and old, that would never wear pre-loved jewellery, and there’s also people who wouldn’t wear new jewellery because they find it boring.”

Koh said jewellery lovers are not just attracted to the style of the pieces but also the stories behind them.

“With the old stuff there’s the intricate workmanship and history to appreciate as well as the product,” Koh explained. “A lot of people prefer the old art of jewellery. “

Koh also owns a pocket watch that was used as a watch in the original Great Gatsby film.

Platinum now more attractive for jewellers

April 8th, 2012 No comments

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Platinum Guild CEO James Courage says platinum is at its most affordable price ever and Aussie jewellers should look to its benefits.


The incredible surge in the price of gold over the last decade has taken it into the same ballpark as the historically supreme metal, platinum. Late last year gold even leapfrogged platinum’s price, and the Perth Mint is still currently pricing gold above platinum. It’s pretty incredible when you consider platinum is around 30 times more rare than gold.

James Courage, CEO of Platinum Guild International, the organisation set with the task of “inspiring a passion for platinum that ensures it is the precious jewellery of choice” puts the gold price surge down to the economic times. Courage was in Australia last week to gain a better understanding of the Australian jewellery industry.

“I think one of the reasons the gold price has gone up is the [economic] uncertainty we are living through in many markets,” he told Jeweller. “It is a store of value, particularly in the last couple of years as an investment because there haven’t been many other investments that have had an upward trend to them.”

Naturally this has made gold more expensive for jewellers and consumers, which in turn has helped spawn silver’s explosion as a leading metal used in jewellery. The other consequence of gold’s price rise is the lavish and rare platinum is now comparatively cheaper than any time in recent memory.

“Jewellers and consumers still see platinum in the premium position so they think it’s priced super premium,” Courage explained. “Today you have that opportunity where it’s the same price as gold.”

The exclusive metal is now more attainable and the Platinum Guild wants to see that convert into higher sales of platinum jewellery. Courage says the white metal’s key jewellery market is still bridal.

“We’ve been promoting it in bridal since the Guild started [1975],” he said. “People very much like the pureness of platinum and it has a strong emotional resonance with the consumer; it’s often the preferred setting for the engagement ring or the wedding band, and that has a long history associated with it.”

Currently 29 per cent of the demand for platinum is for jewellery, with the remaining 71 per cent being taken up by industrial uses.

Courage said a number of markets around the world now had a white metal preference where platinum was the premium choice, however the high price of platinum had previously restricted that choice from being fulfilled. He said the parity of prices between platinum and gold should now change the level of demand for platinum.

“There are physical characteristics that support platinum and there are emotional characteristics that support platinum as well,”Courage explained. “One of platinum’s crucial plusses is that it’s usually 95 per cent pure, though it can go down to 85 per cent in the ISO but in most markets its 95 per cent pure. You’re always getting a pure metal product, which you’re not always getting with gold.”

Hermes converts bags into lavish jewellery

April 8th, 2012 No comments

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Hermes has released elaborate and detailed miniature jewellery versions of some of its most iconic handbag designs.

The French luxury brand may already be renowned for producing leather-goods with a lofty price tag, but the new bracelet incarnations of Hermes’ famous Birkin, Kelly, Nausicaa and Chaîne d’ancre bags are selling at close to $2 million.

Some would argue that it’s for good reason; the designs took around two years to create and feature intricate detailing. The Kelly bracelet bag has 1,160 diamonds set in rose gold molded in the texture of crocodile skin, and the miniature Birkin is studded with 2,712 diamonds.

The pieces are so elaborate that the bags actually open and close.

Commenting on the opening function Hermes creative director of fine jewellery, Pierre Hardy said, “It’s funny because at the same time I wanted them to be real bags, even if, OK, you don’t know what you would carry in it.”

Hardy said jewellery models of the brand’s famous bags made sense as a next step into luxury for the brand.

“For me, it was also logical because Hermes is probably – I don’t want to offend anyone – the most luxurious brand in the world now,” Hardy told Fairfax Media.

”There is no challenge at this level, especially for the leather, for the silk. So because jewellery is probably the most expensive and most precious product you can imagine as an object … it was quite logical for me to try to go higher and higher.”

Hardy claimed that between 1,200 and 1,600 hours of labour went into each Kelly and Birkin jewellery piece. Buyers will also be paying for exclusivity, with only three versions of each design produced.

The brand may be claiming a victory in design ingenuity by simply manufacturing the pieces, but will they sell? Even Hermes CEO Patrick Thomas isn’t so sure.

“We are a little crazy here” he said. “I have no idea (who will buy it), but maybe they will have two bodyguards.”

Masterpiece London 2012

April 8th, 2012 No comments

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LONDON, April 1, 2012 – Masterpiece London 2012 will host this summer a specially curated diamond exhibition in celebration of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.

Entitled “Brilliant”, the exhibition is the first of its kind to be undertaken by the fair, and will offer visitors a visually arresting and intimate experience curated by Carol Woolton, jewellery editor of UK Vogue.

Taking place between 28 June and 4 July at the South Grounds of The Royal Hospital Chelsea, London SW3, Masterpiece London is the ultimate destination to discover the world’s most extraordinary items in art, antiques and design.

True to the fair’s commitment to showcase the best of the best, “Brilliant” promises to wow visitors with the finest Diamond Jewellery, as well as diamond performance art and never-before-seen, innovative one-off pieces.

Continue Reading…

Seminar to support British Asian

April 8th, 2012 No comments

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BIRMINGHAM, England, April 3, 2012 – The British Jewellers’ Association and Birmingham Assay Office have joined forces to highlight issues facing the Asian jewellery community, including the impact of the high gold price.

With the help of West Midlands Police and local media, work is currently being undertaken by both organizations to present a wide reaching seminar that will be held in Birmingham on April 30th.

On the agenda for discussion will be the issues of security, hallmarking and trading in second hand jewellery.

“The escalating price of gold has unfortunately led to an increasing rate of crime against the Asian community,” said Simon Rainer, CEO of the British Jewellers’ Association.

“The seminar will highlight the precautions that Asian jewellery retailers need to take to lower the risk of crime against them and their property. It will also alert them to the various tactics that the criminal fraternity are now employing to gain illegal access to trading premises.”

As the gold of choice for the Asian community is predominantly 22 carat, customers are also vulnerable to being cheated if the jewellery is not of the stated fineness. If it has not been assayed and hallmarked – a legal requirement to protect both the consumer and the trade — they have no way of telling what percentage of gold it contains.

“Most recently an operation conducted by Birmingham Trading Standards netted a 50,000 pounds haul of unmarked jewellery from 21 retailers over the West Midlands in the UK,” said Michael Allchin, Assay Master at The Birmingham Assay Office.

“We are using the seminar as a great opportunity to explain the importance of hallmarking and how Birmingham Assay Office can work with local traders to ensure they stay on the right side of the law.”

The seminar will also be the platform for the official launch of “The Gold Standard”, a joint collaboration between Surrey Police and jewellers’ groups to provide a voluntary and uniform code on how to buy second hand jewellery over the counter.

Tickets for the seminar which will be held at the Jewellery Quarter Conference Centre are available by calling Holly Burnett on 0121 237 1144 or registering online at www.bja.org.uk/ajs

The British Jewellers’ Association looks after the interests of nearly 1,100 companies involved in the jewellery supply industry.

Birmingham Assay Office is the largest Assay Office in the UK, hallmarking millions of articles of gold, silver, platinum and palladium every year to protect the consumer and the trade.

British silversmiths to stage several events in 2012

April 8th, 2012 No comments

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LONDON, March 2012 – British silversmiths, who are now being increasingly recognised for their skills, will stage several events in 2012 to showcase their work.

British Silver Week 2012 Festival of Silver brings together over 100 of the UK’s finest silversmiths in selling exhibitions displaying contemporary silversmithing pieces as practical and sculptural works of art. 

The main event will be held at the Pangolin Gallery, London, from 12-18 May. www.pangolinlondon.com.

“There truly is a renaissance of British silversmithing at the moment,” said Gordon Hamme, MD of British Silver Week.

“We consider that there have rarely been more fine silversmiths working in Britain at the same time.”

British Silver Week will also host the first silversmithing exhibition at the new Goldsmiths’ Centre in Clerkenwell, London, in July.

2012 Programme:

Pangolin London                                            12th-18th May 2012       www.pangolinlondon.com
Press Day                                                     14th May 2pm
Festival of Silver                                             12th-16th May
Enamellers and Engravers                              17th May
Rising Stars                                                  18th May
Goldsmiths’ Centre Exhibition                         10th-14th July               www.goldsmiths-centre.org
Desire Fair                                                    Dates below                  www.craftinfocus.com
Richmond                                                     2nd-4th March 2012   
Private View                                                  1st March
Henley-on-Thames                                         22nd-24th June 2012
Winchester                                                   16th-18th November 2012.
Selling Exhibitions
John Higgins Contemporary Silver, Lindfield       15th June – 1st July      contemporarysilver@live.com This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it
Styles Silver, Hungerford                                  11th – 30th June          www.styles-silver.co.uk
William & Son, Mayfair                                    11th – 22nd June         www.williamandson.com
Hamilton & Inches, Edinburgh                          TBC                            www.hamiltonandinches.com
Hamilton & Inches, Knightsbridge                     TBC                            www.hamiltonandinches.com
Cooksons, Birmingham                                   19th – 22nd June          www.cooksongold.com

Goldsmiths’ Centre Exhibition                          10-14 July

This is the very first silversmithing event at the brand new Goldsmiths’ Centre in Clerkenwell, London: a creative development for designer makers.
 
The collection has been chosen by prominent dealers and collectors to demonstrate the renaissance of British silversmithing in our generation.

Throughout the week, visitors can see a huge range of silver objects created by British designers, meet the makers and attend seminars by some of the curators.
It is also a chance to see firsthand, the new building that will be at the heart of this creative field.

Silversmiths represented by:
•    Brett Payne
•    John Higgins Contemporary Silver
•    Pearson Collection
•    Styles Silver
•    William & Son
•  Seminars by John Andrew, curator of the Pearson Collection, and Derek Styles of Styles Silver on Wednesday 11 July 2.00pm – 4.00pm

The Birmingham Jewellery Show plan

February 9th, 2012 No comments

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BIRMINGHAM , England , February 8, 2012 – The Jewellery Show, which has added new exhibitors this year, has ambitious international growth plans, Event Director Julie Driscoll said.

New exhibitors were present at The Jewellery Show this year, notably including Swarovski, who were talking about franchise stores with retailers, and Phantasya. Breuning was back at the show after an absence of some years.
Breuning has done good business at the show and is optimistic about the years ahead, Driscoll said.
She said The Jewellery Show planned to grow with an international focus in the coming years.
“We’re going to grow the show,” Driscoll told Jewellery Outlook in an interview on the sidelines of The Jewellery Show, which runs from February 5-9.
“We’re going to spend money on a hosted international buyer programme, and also pinpoint jewellery brands and collections and suppliers, particularly internationally.
“We’re listening to the buyers and the exhibitors, and we’re going to build what they need.”

Thomas sabo parties at polo

February 9th, 2012 No comments

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Thomas Sabo launched its Spring/Summer 2012 collection with a party for around 100 fashion and lifestyle journalists in Sydney on Tuesday.
Thomas Sabo international representative Hanny Freund was also a special guest at the event which was held at the Polo Lounge and also attracted a handful of local celebrities including David Campbell, Luke Jacobz, Laura Dundovic, Axle Whitehead, Kendal Schular, Jaynie Seal, Ed Phillips and Adam Williams.
According to the company, the new collection, called Glam & Soul “reflects the identity of Thomas Sabo”.
“These are not merely the design codes for these fabulous items of jewellery, they are also the perfect descriptions for the Thomas Sabo brand itself.
“Our company’s heartbeat has always been particularly well expressed through music. To this end, rock has been constantly in our soul and now the tone has become just that little bit softer: jazz and soul influences have imbued a modern beat into the new collection.”
The new collection, “a beautiful homage to the most successful Thomas Sabo creations of all times”, reinterprets the brands greatest icons – the skull, starfish, the cross and the winged heart.
* Pictured above at the Thomas Sabo launch party are Laura Dundovic, Jaynie Seal, Luke Jacobz and Adam Williams.
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Life begins at 40 for linneys

February 9th, 2012 No comments

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WA-based retail jeweller Linneys is celebrating its 40th  Birthday with the launch of a new collection as well as greater involvement from the next generation of the Linney family.
Founder and creative director Alan Linney, his son Justin and  their team of designers have joined forces to create the 40th Anniversary Collection which is inspired by a wide range of music.
“The past 40 years has been an amazing journey, being able to influence jewellery design in Australia by creating unique pieces that fuse art and jewellery,” said Alan Linney.
“The idea of creating one-off pieces has always been important to Linneys and this commitment to maintaining our distinctive design will continue into the future.”
Assistant creative director Justin Linney designed the 2012 mens’collection.
The 24-year-old was one of the youngest ever finalists in the Diamond Guild of Australia Awards and said the new mens’ collection features exciting pieces with a more contemporary edge.
“We had a lot of fun using music as the back drop for our inspiration,” he said.
“It was interesting exploring the different genres and how they could be expressedthrough design and I’m particularly excited about our 40th Anniversary disco ball which is a new way of presenting pearls.”
The new collection will be promoted by Linneys’ brand ambassadors Jessica Marais and Jason Dundas (pictured above), whose “fresh young looks” represent the brands’ commitment to the future.
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The birmingham jewellery show

February 9th, 2012 No comments

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BIRMINGHAM, England, February 5, 2012 – Despite the countrywide ‘Amber’ weather warnings issued by the Metrological Office and more than a sprinkling of snow at The National Exhibition Centre, Birmingham, it was business as usual at The Jewellery Show 2012 which opened today.

Many of the exhibitors I spoke with had experienced travel difficulties during the setting up period and in reaching the exhibition centre for opening time, but all were pleasantly surprised by how many visitors had braved the elements to attend.
“We’ve experienced a steady flow of customers and have been excited to talk to them about our new ‘Counter Sketch’ in-store design programme for retailers,” said Gary Baines, MD of GemVision, the Leeds-based provider of Matrix jewellery design software.
“This is now supported by a set of prototypes in base metals and czs and these have been very well received and are capturing buyers’ imagination.”
Barrie Dobson, Sales Director of IBB, was also pleased by footfall in the early hours of the show.
“We were horrified when we saw the weather last night but it would seem that a fair few people have braved it,” he said.
“The snow may have put off some of the less keen but what we want is quality not quantity and we seem to getting that, so it’s not all bad.”
One area in Hall 17 that was certainly drawing the crowds, was the Pandora Catwalk Cafe where all of this morning’s presentations attracted a good audience but especially the Catwalk Show at midday.
The show, which will be repeated twice daily on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday and at noon on Thursday,  was broken down into six separate scenes:  ‘Pandora’, ‘Radical Neutrality’, ‘Time’, ‘Sponsored’, ‘Hyperculture’ and ‘Design Quarter’.
The jewellery on the catwalk was big and bold with colourful stones, or Swarovski crystals, much in evidence.
Swarovski is a new exhibitor at the event this year.
There were also plenty of two tone designs, mixing white and yellow metals.
Wristwear was ubiquitous with ‘look at me’ bangles, bracelets and cuffs jostling for prominence.
Babette Wasserman went for a wooden bangle with added diamante sparkle; Kimberley Selwood for a deep cuff in pierced silver; Andonio Ben Chimo for an interlocking design utilising metals of all hues with clever and decorative magnetic clasps, and Rachel Galley for two enormous gold-plated silver bangles, which being the last pieces to appear were quite literally as a well as metaphorically show stoppers.
Another interesting story on the catwalk came from ‘Cornerstone’, the South African jewellery project established by the prize-winning British designer/maker Paul Spurgeon to provide a livelihood for jewellers working in the township of Soweto.
Paul has designed the jewellery in conjunction with his African partner Nqobile Nkosi who joined him at the Catwalk Show to see two models, one black and one white, wearing the jewellery they have created.
After the Show was over, an emotional Paul said: “It was better than I could ever have imagined.”
The Cornerstone Collection, which is to be sold in both the UK and Africa, is on display throughout the Fair on the Weston Beamor stand.
The Catwalk paid dividends for the Worcestershire designer/maker, Melanie Ankers of Kokkino who is exhibiting in the expanded ‘Design Quarter’.
Melanie’s ‘Shimmer’ collection in sterling silver dipped into 22.5ct yellow gold is right on trend, and drew admiring glances during its appearance on the catwalk.
It also brought a number of interested parties to her stand following the show.
“Today, as you might expect with the weather, has been quite quiet but we have had some good interest in our new collections,” Melanie said.
For the British Jewellers’ Association 2012 marks 125 years since its formation and it is celebrating with an anniversary logo, a new look stand and a competition to create a design for a Commemorative Silver Desk Accessory to join its silver collection.
Drawings of the pieces shortlisted for the competition, which is being sponsored by Cookson, are exhibited on the BJA stand and visitors and exhibitors at the show are being asked to vote for the one they prefer.
The items to choose from are: a Perpetual Calendar by Kerri Chamberlain, a paper knife inspired by the Staffordshire Hoard by Jack Rowe, a Unicorn Pen Stand by Erica Sharpe, a Desk Tray, Box and Paper Knife by Harriet Bedford, a Quill Pen, Ink Well and Stand by Petya Kapralova, and a Chrysler Desk Set by Alex Clamp.
“Please tell everyone to come along and cast their vote,” said an enthusiastic Lindsey Straughton who is co-ordinating the competition.
The Jewellery Show continues until 9th February with opening hours from 9.00-18.00 Monday to Wednesday and from 9.00.16.00 on Thursday.

[Story by Perfect-Jewellery]